When I first saw the photo of the New York Times “Fresh and Wild Mushroom Stew“, I could practically taste it. Eventually I had the supplies, including two pounds of mushrooms: mostly creminis, a few chanterelles, and a crinkly bag from Mikuni Wild Harvest, “buna shimeji”. The cooking went surprisingly quickly; mushrooms yield their complex flavors without much coaxing.
Any mix of mushrooms will do, but if you have access to beautiful wild ones, like these chanterelles, your dish will have better flavor. Getting the mushrooms clean and prepped takes the most time, but you can do that while your dried mushroom broth simmers on the stove. Brush the dirt off each mushroom using a minimal amount of water, lest they get waterlogged. I work over the sink with a slow trickle of water from the faucet, mushroom in one hand, soft-bristled mushroom brush (or damp paper towel) in the other. I set a clean kitchen towel to the side and transfer each mushroom there when it is clean. Remember, you’re going for clean enough not perfect.
Mushrooms & Polenta
adapted from "Fresh and Wild Mushroom Stew" from the New York Times
Dried Mushroom Broth
- 4 cups water
- 1 onion peeled and halved or 6 green onions, split
- 1 carrot peeled and quartered
- 1 celery stalk quartered
- ¼ ounce dried porcini mushrooms (or other dried mushrooms) crumbled
- 1 bay leaf
- 1 ½ pounds cultivated brown mushrooms, like shiitake, cremini or portobello
- 8 ounces wild mushrooms, like chanterelles (or king trumpets, oyster, etc.)
- 3 tbsp olive oil divided
- 1 yellow onion peeled and diced
- pinch salt
- 1 tbsp tomato paste
- 1 tsp fresh thyme minced
- 1 tsp fresh sage or rosemary minced
- pinch dried red pepper flakes or cayenne
- 3 small, ripe tomatoes peeled, seeded and chopped
- 1 tbsp all-purpose flour
- pinch salt
- a few grinds fresh black pepper
- 1 tbsp unsalted butter
- 3 garlic cloves minced and mashed with 1/2 teaspoon salt
- 4 cups water
- 1 tsp salt
- 1 cup polenta
- 2 tbsp butter or olive oil (or some of each)
Start dried mushroom broth: Bring 4 cups water to boil, add the onion, carrot, celery, dried mushrooms, and bay leaf. Lower heat to maintain a slow simmer for 30 minutes. Remove from heat, strain and discard solids.
Clean mushrooms, keeping colors separate, and trim tough stems. Slice mushrooms about ⅛ -inch thick.
In a wide skillet, warm 2 tablespoons olive oil over medium high heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring with a wooden spoon, until onion is softened and browned, about 10 minutes. Remove from pan and set aside.
Return pan to heat, add 1 more tablespoon oil. Add the brown mushrooms, sprinkle with a pinch of salt and stir-fry about 5 minutes. Lower heat to medium and add the tomato paste, thyme, sage, and red pepper and stir. Add tomatoes and cook for a minute.
Sprinkle 1 tablespoon flour over all, stir, and cook for a couple minutes. Add reserved onions, 1 cup dried mushroom broth, and stir a minute, until thickened. Gradually add 1 more cup of broth and cook for a couple minutes, sauce should have gravy-like consistency; thin with more broth if necessary. Taste for seasoning and add an additional pinch of salt and some freshly ground black pepper if desired.
Push cooked mushrooms to sides of pan and add 1 tablespoon butter to the middle of the pan. When butter begins to brown, add the chanterelles and sauté for a couple minutes, until they begin to brown. Add the garlic-salt mash and cook for a minute more. All done! Serve over freshly cooked polenta.
Bring 4 cups water to boil, add salt, and sprinkle in while stirring 1 cup polenta. Simmer on low heat about 15 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Turn off heat, stir in butter and/or olive oil, cover and let sit until ready to serve. Will remain creamy and get better and better for up to 45 minutes.