Combine cream, milk, and pinch of salt in a medium-sized saucepan. Whisk in the pumpkin, bring to a boil, immediately remove from the heat, cover, and let steep for 30 minutes.

Put the egg yolks in a medium mixing bowl set over another bowl filled half-way with hot tap water. Whisk the yolks until they are lukewarm, 90–100°F (this will just take a minute or two), then remove the bowl from the water.

Add the sugars (white and brown) to the pumpkin cream and bring back to a boil. Remove saucepan from heat and immediately pour a gradual stream into the egg yolks, whisking constantly for a minute. (This will cook the egg yolks, an instant-read thermometer will register 170–180°.) Whisk for another minute to slightly cool the mixture and pour through a fine sieve into a 4-cup glass measuring cup or bowl.

Stir in the vanilla, cinnamon, ginger, black pepper, and optional whiskey or brandy. Refrigerate overnight to cool completely.

Churn in an ice cream maker according to the manufacturer instructions—the Cuisinart with freezer bowl takes 20 minutes.

Ice cream will be soft-serve. Transfer to a container and freeze until desired texture.