6–8 servings; adapted from "Osso Buco," Cooking with Italian Grandmothers by Jessica Theroux
Preheat oven to 325°F and put rack in lower third.
Pat the shank pieces dry and sprinkle both sides with salt. In batches of about 3 or 4 shanks at a time, brown on both sides in a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Use a tablespoon or so of oil/lard per batch, remove shanks to a holding bowl when done. Deglase pot after each batch with about ¼ cup wine, scraping up browned bits and pouring over the shanks in bowl. Anticipate about 5 minutes per batch of 3 or 4 pieces.
Melt butter in the pot used to brown the shanks. Add onions, carrots, celery, garlic, orange or lemon zest, and all the herbs and spices. Cook over medium-high heat until onions soften, about 10 minutes. Add the wine, broth, reserved shanks and all liquid, turn up heat and bring to boil. Lower heat to maintain a slow simmer and place the covered pot in the oven. Cook for 2–3 hours, turning the meat a few times during cooking. The shanks are done when they are tender and easily pierced with a fork.
Remove the bay leaves, cinnamon stick, allspice berries, thyme, parsley stems, and garlic cloves. The sauce should have a loose-creamy consistency, if you wish, reduce it further by boiling on the stovetop. Taste sauce and season with salt and freshly ground pepper. Add half the gremolata and pass remaining at the table. Serve on warm plates or shallow bowls with polenta or other creamy base to contain the broth.